AMERICAN FRUIT DESSERTS
We love the names Americans have given their homey fruit-and-dough desserts over the years—pandowdy, cobbler, crisp, brown betty, crunch, slump, grunt, buckle. These desserts seem descended from puddings on one side and pies on the other. They may be based on biscuit dough, pie dough, dumplings, breadcrumbs, a crumbled flour-based topping, or cake; the fruit may be cooked under, over, or inside the dough or between dough layers. However they are made, these are plain, uncomplicated desserts—almost folklore, passed down from one generation to the next made with whatever ingredients are available.
    All these desserts are best enjoyed the day they’re made. Reheat them in the oven if needed, as the microwave steams and destroys a crisp topping. Serve warm with ice cream or unsweetened whipped cream or scoop into a bowl and pass a pitcher of cream or rich milk.